Most visitors to Benin stay in the south, between Cotonou, the largest city, and Porto-Novo, the official capital. From there it is a short trip to the stilt village of Ganvié on Lake Nokoué, to Ouidah, with its slave trade memorials and its vodun heritage, and to the royal palaces of Abomey, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Benin is outside the EU's Roam Like at Home area, so a European SIM roams there at its operator's own rates.
Key facts for Benin
- EU roaming: not covered by Roam Like at Home
- Local networks: Celtiis (depending on plan)
- Emergency numbers: police 117; fire and ambulance 118
- Embassies: in Cotonou
The north
The national parks of the north, W and Pendjari, are off-limits: the UK advises against all travel to them and their hunting zones, to the area between the W park and Niger, and to within 5 km of the border with Burkina Faso, and against all but essential travel to the rest of the Alibori and Atacora departments and to the area between the RNIE 2 highway and the Nigerian border. There is a risk of terrorist attacks and kidnapping, and the US says do not travel to the areas bordering Burkina Faso, Niger and northern Nigeria. The US also notes that most coastal and southern areas of Benin are safe.
Cotonou and the coast
Coverage is good in Cotonou and the south. Street crime, including theft and mugging, is common in Cotonou: avoid walking alone at night, stay alert in Dantokpa market and keep away from it after dark, and never walk on the beach alone. Carjackings happen in the city and on roads outside towns. Ocean currents are very strong along the whole coast and people drown every year, so only swim with reliable local advice. Political demonstrations can start without warning, so stay clear of them.
Getting around
Roads are poor and badly lit, so avoid driving outside towns at night. Taxis and long-distance buses are often poorly maintained and overloaded, and riding the zemidjans, the motorbike taxis, leaves you more exposed to mugging and robbery, especially at night; US embassy staff are not allowed to use them. Police set up temporary roadblocks to check vehicles.
Laws to know
Possession, use or trafficking of illegal drugs is a serious offence. Same-sex sexual activity is legal, but same-sex relationships are not widely accepted and public affection can draw negative attention. It is illegal to take photos at or near sensitive sites, such as military installations or the airport.
Health, visas and money
You need a yellow fever vaccination certificate to enter Benin. Apply for your visa online at least 7 days before you travel; it is then issued when you arrive at Cotonou airport. The currency is the West African CFA franc. Only a few higher-end hotels and restaurants take cards, and ATMs are often out of order and can charge high fees, so be ready to pay in cash. Carry a copy of your passport and visa and leave the originals in the hotel safe.
Getting connected
A travel eSIM you set up before leaving connects when you land in Cotonou, and your home SIM keeps working for texts and bank codes. An Africa plan also covers Togo, Ghana and Nigeria.
Beninese SIM cards from MTN, Moov Africa or Celtiis are sold in Cotonou, and you need your passport to register one.
Consular protection: who to call in Benin
- Call 117 for the police and 118 for the fire brigade or an ambulance; the US also lists 112 for an ambulance.
- Embassies are in Cotonou. The Telcomia app shows yours, with address and phone.
- EU citizens whose own country has no embassy or consulate in Benin can turn to any other EU country's embassy, which must treat them as it treats its own nationals (Article 23 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the EU).
- French is the official language, and the app has emergency phrases in French that you can show on screen.
Questions travellers ask about Benin
Can I use my EU plan in Benin?
Only by roaming at your operator's rates; Benin is not part of Roam Like at Home.
Can I visit Pendjari National Park?
Not at the moment: the UK advises against all travel to the Pendjari and W national parks because of the risk of terrorist attacks and kidnapping.
Which network does a Telcomia eSIM use in Benin?
Celtiis, with 4G where available.
Is it safe to swim?
The currents are very strong along the whole coast and people drown every year, so only swim where you have reliable local advice.
The short version
Install the eSIM before departure, stay in the south, avoid zemidjans at night, never walk on the beach alone, carry cash and a copy of your passport, and save 117 and 118.
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