The Union of the Comoros is a chain of three volcanic islands at the northern end of the Mozambique Channel, between Madagascar and the East African coast. Grande Comore holds the capital, Moroni, the international airport at Hahaya and the active Karthala volcano, while Anjouan and Mohéli lie to the south-east. It is an Islamic country with very few banks and only basic medical care, so a trip here needs more preparation than most. Comoros is not covered by Roam Like at Home, which means a European SIM is billed at its operator's roaming rates on every island.
Key facts for Comoros
- EU roaming: not covered by Roam Like at Home
- Local networks: varies by plan
- Emergency numbers: police 117; fire 113 or 114; for an ambulance, phone the nearest hospital
- Embassies: France has an embassy in Moroni; the UK and the US cover Comoros from Antananarivo, Madagascar
Arriving: visa, customs and cash
British travellers need a visa, even if they are only travelling through; it is sold on arrival at Hahaya airport or another point of entry for a fee in euros. Your passport has to be valid for at least 6 months from the day you land, and customs rules are strict, so declare anything that might be restricted or taxed. Banks and cash machines are very scarce on Grande Comore and the other islands, card terminals can fail because of technical or connection problems, and the hotels and restaurants that take euros give change in Comorian francs. Bring enough cash for the whole stay and ask your hotel ahead of time whether it accepts your card.
Faith, dress and Ramadan
Sunni Islam is the official religion and the practice of Shia Islam is not allowed. Men and women alike are expected to wear loose clothing that covers them from the shoulders to the knees. Most islanders regard public displays of intimacy as indecent. During Ramadan, whose dates move each year, do not eat, drink, smoke or chew gum in public during daylight, even inside a car, and avoid loud music, dancing and swearing; hotels and restaurants serving food in fasting hours may seat you apart from Muslim guests, sometimes behind screens. Alcohol is sold in some hotels, but drinking it or being drunk on public roads is illegal and can lead to a fine or prison. Ask before you photograph anyone, keep your camera away from public buildings, especially police and military ones, and note that same-sex sexual activity is illegal and can bring up to 5 years in prison and heavy fines. Drug offences carry long prison sentences.
Protests, crime and the airport road
Unrest can break out in Moroni and elsewhere on Grande Comore, Anjouan and Mohéli, particularly after elections. Protests have blocked roads in the capital, including the route between the city and the airport, so leave plenty of time for flights when tension is high; in January 2024 a protester was killed in clashes with the security forces. A long-standing dispute between Comoros and France over the island of Mayotte also stirs some anti-French feeling and occasional demonstrations. Ordinary crime is low and robbery in the street is rare, but pickpockets operate, and walking alone at night, on beaches or in town centres, raises the risk. Use the hotel safe for cash and documents, and always carry ID with printed copies of your passport photo page and visa stamp.
Karthala, cyclones and crossings between islands
Karthala, the volcano near Moroni, last erupted in 2007, so check its latest monitoring reports before planning a visit. Tropical cyclones can strike between January and May. Boats and ferries link the 3 islands, but they can be overloaded, in poor condition and short of life jackets, and overloaded vessels have capsized with heavy loss of life, so choose your boat with care and check that life jackets are on board. On Grande Comore the main ring road is in reasonable shape, while many other roads are poor. A UK photocard driving licence is valid for up to 3 months.
Hospitals, power cuts and malaria
Medical facilities on all 3 islands are basic and mostly private, and interruptions to electricity and water can affect hospitals as well as other services, so pack a torch and a power bank. TravelHealthPro, the UK's official travel health website, rates the malaria risk as high and recommends antimalarial tablets, and dengue cases have also been reported. Take out insurance that covers medical evacuation and repatriation.
Getting connected
A travel eSIM set up before departure is online as soon as you land at Hahaya, handy for messaging your hotel about a pick-up. You can pick a Comoros plan, which runs on 3G, or an Africa plan, which also covers Madagascar, Tanzania and Mayotte and suits a journey that links several stops around the Mozambique Channel. Because cuts are common, carry a charged power bank. Leave your home SIM in place for bank messages, but disable its data roaming.
Consular protection: who to call in Comoros
- Call 117 for the police and 113 or 114 for the fire brigade. There is no national ambulance number: ring the hospital on your island and ask for one, El Maarouf on Grande Comore (+269 773 26 04), Fomboni on Mohéli (+269 772 03 73) or Hombo on Anjouan (+269 771 00 34).
- The UK has no embassy in Comoros, so British nationals are assisted by the British Embassy in Antananarivo, Madagascar.
- Use the Telcomia app before you fly to find which embassy or consulate handles Comoros for your passport, and keep its number with your documents.
- France has an embassy in Moroni: EU citizens whose own country is not represented in Comoros can turn to it, or to any other EU mission there, and must be helped on the same terms as that country's nationals (Article 23 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the EU).
- Comorian (Shikomori), French and Arabic are the official languages.
Questions travellers ask about Comoros
Will my EU plan work in Comoros?
Only as roaming at your operator's own prices, because Comoros is outside Roam Like at Home.
Can I get a visa at the airport?
Yes, visas are sold on arrival at Hahaya and other entry points. Have euros in cash ready for the fee.
Which network does a Telcomia eSIM use in Comoros?
It depends on the plan; the Comoros plans run on 3G.
Who do I call for an ambulance?
There is no national ambulance line, so phone the hospital on the island you are on: El Maarouf, Fomboni or Hombo.
The short version
Bring cash and a passport valid for at least 6 months, buy the visa on arrival, install the eSIM before flying, dress modestly and respect Ramadan, keep clear of protests and overloaded boats, check Karthala's status before hiking, and save 117 plus your island hospital's number.
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