Lesotho is a kingdom entirely surrounded by South Africa, and more than three quarters of its land is mountainous, cut by deep valleys. Maseru, the capital, lies on the western border, while the highland roads climb east towards Sani Pass, one of the crossings back into South Africa. Lesotho is not covered by Roam Like at Home, and every route in passes through South Africa, so a European SIM roams at its operator's rates from the moment you reach South Africa until you leave.
Key facts for Lesotho
- EU roaming: not covered by Roam Like at Home
- Local networks: varies by plan
- Emergency numbers: 112 for police, fire and ambulance
- Embassies: the US in Maseru; British consular help comes from Pretoria, and many EU countries cover Lesotho from South Africa
Getting in through South Africa
All visitors reach Lesotho through South Africa, by air or by road, so you must also meet South Africa's entry rules. Your passport needs to be valid for 90 days after arrival and have at least 4 blank pages, since both countries stamp it on the way in and on the way out. British visitors can stay up to 90 days without a visa and extend with a 90-day temporary permit form, handed in at the Visa Application Centre in Maseru's Manthabiseng Convention Centre; other passports may get a different allowance, so check what applies to yours. Overstaying can lead to detention and weekly fines. Keep a copy of your passport's photo page and entry stamp on you, as officials may ask to see them, and declare cash above the official threshold when you arrive, or it could be seized when you leave.
Sani Pass, snow and mountain roads
You can only use Sani Pass, on the eastern border, to enter or leave Lesotho in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, and a 4x4 or a car with high clearance makes travel easier across much of the interior, especially in wet or snowy weather. Winter, from June to August, brings extreme cold and heavy snow to the mountains, and snowfalls can close roads and passes; even in summer the mountain weather changes quickly and can turn cold. Parts of the country are high enough for altitude sickness. Driving standards and road conditions are poor, and animals on the road are a hazard, above all at night. A UK photocard licence is valid for up to 3 months. Avoid the minibus taxis known as 4+1s, which may be poorly maintained and uninsured and often ignore road safety rules; transport arranged by your lodge or a tour operator is safer.
Maseru and personal safety
Political demonstrations happen now and then in Maseru; they are usually peaceful, but move away if security forces are present. Much of the violent crime is gun crime between organised groups, yet visitors are exposed to opportunistic street and car crime. Don't walk alone in isolated places or after dark, keep car doors locked and windows shut, never stop for people trying to flag you down or give lifts to strangers, and take care near border crossings, at junctions and at roadblocks; if you are attacked, do not resist. Burglaries tend to rise in the run-up to Christmas and Easter. Gender-based violence is very high. Sex between men is illegal, though the FCDO is not aware of the law being enforced.
Healthcare and money
Medical facilities are basic. The main hospitals, Queen Mamohato Memorial and Maseru Private, are both in the Maseru area, and most districts have a district hospital, but most foreign visitors use the facilities in Bloemfontein, South Africa, a 90-minute drive (140 km) from Maseru. The loti is pegged one-to-one to the South African rand, both currencies are accepted throughout Lesotho, and British debit and credit cards work widely for payments and at ATMs; outside Maseru, carry enough cash for local purchases.
Getting connected
A travel eSIM installed before departure has you online as soon as you reach South Africa, provided your plan covers it. Lesotho has its own 4G plans, while an Africa plan or a World plan also covers South Africa and Botswana, so one eSIM can take you from the airport to the mountains. Mountains and scattered villages leave gaps in coverage, so download maps and your lodge's details before heading into the highlands. Leave your home SIM in the phone for bank texts, with data roaming disabled.
Consular protection: who to call in Lesotho
- Call 112 for the police, the fire service or an ambulance.
- The UK has a high commission in Maseru, but it has no consular office: British nationals are helped by the British High Commission in Pretoria. The US Embassy in Maseru assists American citizens.
- Many EU countries look after Lesotho from their missions in South Africa, so check which one covers it for your passport. If your own country is not represented, any other EU country's mission must assist you on the same terms as its own nationals (Article 23 of the Treaty on the Functioning of the EU).
- Save your embassy's address and phone number from the Telcomia app before you head into the mountains.
- Sesotho and English are the official languages.
Questions travellers ask about Lesotho
Will my EU plan work in Lesotho?
Only on roaming at your operator's own rates, as Lesotho is not covered by Roam Like at Home; the same goes for South Africa on the way in.
Do I need a 4x4 for Sani Pass?
Yes. Entering or leaving Lesotho through Sani Pass requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle, so plan your route with that in mind.
Which network does a Telcomia eSIM use in Lesotho?
That varies by plan; the Lesotho plans connect on 4G where available.
Where would I get serious medical care?
Most foreign visitors go to Bloemfontein in South Africa, a 90-minute drive from Maseru, so check that your insurance covers treatment there.
The short version
Install the eSIM before you travel, meet South Africa's entry rules as well as Lesotho's, keep 4 blank passport pages, take a 4x4 for Sani Pass, pack for cold in the mountains, drive in daylight without stopping for strangers, carry cash outside Maseru, and save 112.
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